re: China pt. 3

The battle against the cold.

With the Beijing section of the trip behind us, we were on sleeper trains every other night, spending around 2 days in each city before heading to the next destination. So arriving in Xi’an, we wasted no time in dropping off our bags at the hostel and catching the bus to the site of the Terracotta Army! Skipping past the tour guides milling around the entrance and opting for an audio guide instead, we made our way to Pit 1. I was fearful of being underwhelmed, but it was absolutely spectacular to view the army in real life! The excavation site is massive and it was fascinating to walk around and observe the tiny differences in detail between each soldier. Pit 2 and 3 are much smaller, but offers terracotta horses and a little museum exhibit explaining distinctions between the soldiers. Finishing our visit with a final look in Pit 1, we had lunch in a noodle restaurant nearby before catching the bus back into the city. To make the most of our visit to Xi’an, we headed over to the Bell Tower, which we observed from outside, and then to the Drum Tower… also observed from the outside. If we had more time, I would have definitely entered the Drum Tower, if only to hit the huge drums! The Muslim Quarter was a road over and packed full of food stalls and restaurants to try!

Sitting down in a restaurant, I ordered what I thought was a noodle soup dish, but was given a bowl containing two pieces of hard undercooked pita bread. Was this some sort of accompaniment to my main meal? Sensing my confusion, the waiters motioned that I had to break the bread. (???) So now I had 4 pieces of broken pita bread. (???) Finally a lady came to the table to demonstrate that the whole thing needed to be broken down into little pieces. Following her actions, I hoped she would see that I had understood and stop, but she continued breaking bread and in attempt to be helpful, so did my friends. The four of us, concentrated on tearing bread made such a hilarious scene that even the waiters were laughing! After all these hands touching the bulk ingredient of my meal, it was whisked away into the kitchen to be cooked in a spicy sauce, with some actual vermicelli noodles thrown in. While the flavours of the dish were nice, the texture of the pita bread soaking up the sauce wasn’t exactly to my taste and I guiltily left most of the bowl uneaten. Making a swift exit out of the restaurant, we roamed the market searching for something more appetising to eat. There’s a yoghurt drink that’s everywhere in China and which I now regret not buying more of since the jar also doubles as a cute little souvenir!

Our last day in Xi’an, we went to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda where it was so cold it started snowing. To escape, we headed into a coffee shop to warm up and watched the fountain show opposite before saying goodbye to Astrid who had to catch a flight back to Hong Kong! This left my friend Sandy and I to wander around the area, including the Shaanxi Museum (free entry!) until it was time to catch our next sleeper train! Apologies if the writing sounds a bit rushed, but let’s just say it’s purposefully done to reflect the nature of this little inter-railing trip around China (heh). Stay posted for the final instalment!

re: China pt. 1

The Great Tour of China begins!

Another reading week and another excuse to travel! This time my friends and I ventured off to spend 9 days travelling around China, starting from Beijing and working our way back down to Hong Kong via train. Having heard stories from friends about being pick-pocketed and warnings of abduction via an overdramatic dad and grandma, unsurprisingly I was very apprehensive about the trip. Not knowing much of the language was also very unsettling for me, which is strange considering that I was pretty nonplussed about travelling to Japan knowing zero Japanese. I think living in Hong Kong can make it hard to ignore the anti-Mainland China sentiments, whether it’s against the Chinese government or the influx of Mainland nationals. Certainly, this did bias my view of China and despite how excited I was to visit its sights and experience its culture, I couldn’t ignore the vulnerability I felt as a foreigner. Where Japanese culture is held in high regard as being polite and hospitable, Chinese culture seems seemed to me a little cold and exploitive. But travelling China and being able to interact with the locals, I have discovered the complete opposite! The people I encountered were so friendly, helpful and generous, it has changed how I view the country and its people, putting me much more at ease with visiting again in the future.


First impressions? Gigantic! Everything from the roads, buildings and railway stations were bigger than I had anticipated and I could never get over how spacious the city is after being accustomed to the tight confines of Hong Kong. During our time here, we were able to visit Wangfujing Night Market, which was full of street food and where my roommate Astrid fulfilled her lifelong ambition of eating scorpions! Living to tell the tale, the next day we visited the Great Wall – Mutianyu section, which research told me was the best part to visit for great views without the competition of other tourists. Touring the wall felt so surreal! It was strange to be walking on this piece of history I’ve only seen in pictures before. Its sheer size and spread was breathtaking and the hike up its many stairs was enough to keep us warm against the cold. Passing watchtower 23, we were able to access the older part of the wall, which was the most interesting to see and also less littered with tourists. Talking about litter, it was really sad to see so many discarded bottles along the wall! Being granted such an opportunity to actually walk along this magnificent monument as opposed to viewing it from behind a barrier, it’s extraordinary disrespectful and selfish to throw your rubbish away so carelessly! I read a really great article recently about the negative impacts of tourism, which has made me more conscious of my responsibilities as a traveller and is something I hope is promoted more as it becomes increasingly easier for people to travel. (Srsly, check it out guys).

Moving on, we visited Hongqiao Pearl Market, which apart from the obviously huge offering of pearls, was pretty much like any other market selling merchandise for the tourists. After, we ate at a hotpot restaurant nearby that was astoundingly cheap (58 RMB) for how much food was given to us. Our final day in Beijing, we hoped to visit the Forbidden City, but found it was closed on Monday (what cruel fate)! Taking the subway to Tiananmen Square for a quick look, we were swept up by the one-way system and ended up at the Palace Museum. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to go in, but another reason to return to Beijing at least! Instead, we met up with a friend (Alice!) for lunch and together went to the 798-art zone. Like the rest of Beijing, this place is HUGE and I could easily spend the whole day there exploring. As if people didn’t hate Monday enough, many of the art galleries were closed on this day but there was plenty open to keep us occupied nonetheless! With a train to catch, we were invited back to Alice’s house for a quick cup(s) of tea and were generously laden with snacks for the train journey as well as lift to the train station (on the way we were able to catch a glimpse of the Bird’s Nest Stadium – points for travelling efficiency!).

Arriving at the train station was overwhelming, again due to it’s sheer size and the amount of people travelling through. Major train stations in China are a world away from the ones I’ve experienced in Europe and so are its travellers! Here, you can observe a funny mix of local travellers, diverse in age, appearance and SES. Waiting rooms for trains are packed with people waiting to board, camped out in any space of floor available. They’re noisy and dirty with fruit peels and nutshells on the floor, but it all added to the colour and atmosphere of the experience! Eventually boarding the train, we were surprised by how many westerners were on board, later finding out our cabin mate for the night, a friendly Chinese man named Jean was leading the tour of 47! We had opted for the soft sleeper (4 people per cabin), pleasantly finding them to be comfortable enough for our needs and so, with a not so bad start to our trip; we were on our way to the next destination, Xi’an! Workload dependent, my next post on Xi’an should be up this time next week, stay tuned for part 2!

re: Chinese New Year

happy new year… again (?!)

Something a little bit different today! Making sound on those New Year resolutions, I was surprised by how quick it was to edit this little video. Not sure why the thumbnail looks like it was filmed on a potato, but click play and bask in the wondrous picture quality of the iPhone 6s (that is, if everything went smoothly in the uploading process)!

Happy Year of the Monkey everyone!


re: cantonese

Gwong Dung Whaaaat?

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Sitting on the bus just the other day, I was struck by how at home I felt. Surrounded only by people speaking Cantonese, it felt as comfortable as sitting on a bus in the UK. Having grown up with the language always in the background of my life, I guess it’s no surprise how quickly I’ve grown accustomed to life here. With Hong Kong’s colonial past and native roots from China, many people in the city are able to speak at least two or three languages. Sometimes that can be depressing, but putting my jealously aside for one second, it is SO impressive! In the UK, being able to speak English was quite enough. Here, with almost everyone I’ve met being bilingual, you do start to feel a little inferior, not to mention ashamed. I can blame my parents for not enforcing the second language growing up, or myself for foolishly not wanting to learn, there are so many ways to lay the blame, but that doesn’t help me today.

Actually, when I first came to Hong Kong I was embarrassed. I was embarrassed of not knowing the language fluently (aren’t you supposed to be Chinese?) and I was embarrassed of speaking it in public – for some reason it felt fraudulent. I know people say that locals love and appreciate it when you try to communicate using their language, but to me it feels offensive. During an inter-railing stop in Paris, I cringed internally every time my friends used ‘merci’ (guys, if you’re reading this, I’m sorry!) Maybe ‘thank-you’ comes across as ignorant or stubborn, but I feel much more truthful saying it. This can probably be attributed to the amount of random people I’ve come across in my life who have ever uttered the words ‘ni hao/nei hou!’ to me -_-‘ please… do not do that. Similarly, it goes to say that people (i.e waiters/waitresses) here also do not have the patience to listen to you rattle out your awkward Canto. My exchange friends have told me of their experiences where they got scolded for not knowing the correct word or not fully understanding (note, these people have a far better grasp of Cantonese than me!)

However, I’ve always heard it said that the best way to learn a language is to live abroad, to immerse yourself in the desired language and culture. Being surrounded by people speaking Cantonese, I can definitely say that being abroad is an enormous help. However, the problem is that many people are also able to speak English! It therefore becomes too easy to fall back on the language I’m most comfortable with in social situations – if I get asked a question in Cantonese on campus, my immediate instinct is to respond in English (must…resist). Taking Cantonese lessons helps to build upon my existing foundations (shaky though they are!) and it becomes easier for me to retrieve certain words from memory. I can optimistically say that I am able to perfectly understand roughly 90% of what is spoken to or around me, but when it comes to speaking it myself, somehow the words don’t come to mind. Maybe my problem is wanting to express myself exactly how I would in English, thus making it harder to construct sentences with the vocabulary I know. To combat this, I am regularly going to a Cantonese language exchange. As well as being a great way to practice speaking with locals, it’s also a wonderful way to meet new people as you’re paired with a different partner each time – plus everyone goes for dim sum after!

It took a trip to Japan to make me see how it truly feels to be living in a place where I do not know the language at all, to realise how familiar I am with Cantonese. Returning to Hong Kong actually felt like home, everything became understandable again! All in all, I do really want to become orally fluent, and hope that by the end of my study abroad period I am able to confidently say (maybe in Cantonese heh) that I am. Wish me luck!